台阶型海脊俘获波的实验研究-海洋预报

台阶型海脊俘获波的实验研究

单位：1. 河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室, 江苏南京 210098;
2. 河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院, 江苏南京 210098;
3. 国家海洋环境预报中心, 北京 100081;
4. 自然资源部海洋减灾中心, 北京 100194

关键词：俘获波海啸台阶型海脊模型实验

分类号：P731.25

出版年·卷·期（页码）：2020·37·第二期（29-37）

摘要：

基于物理模型实验研究瞬态冲击波在台阶地形上传播过程，揭示由于反射而在海脊上出现的波浪俘获现象。结果表明：在瞬态波产生区域附近，海脊上所测到的先导波即为最大波，其由泄漏至海脊外的深水波绕射至海脊所致。随着传播距离的增加，由于频散效应的影响，先导波逐渐减小，沿台阶近似直线传播的海脊俘获波和在台阶上曲折传播的海脊俘获波逐渐显现。在距离波浪产生较远区域所测的最大波晚于先导波出现，且这些由俘获波所叠加而成的最大波随着传播距离的增加而呈现出更加复杂的波面过程。

Physical model experiments are conducted in this paper to investigate the propagation process of transient waves on the stepped ridge and to reveal the trapped waves over ridge due to the reflection at the borderline. The results show that the front wave recorded over ridge is the biggest wave, which is generated by the diffraction of deep water wave at the ridge. Along with the increase of the propagation distance, the front wave train of the generated transient wave decreases due to the dispersion effect, and the trapped waves propagating straightly along the step and zigzagging over the ridge start to gradually appear.. The biggest wave recorded in the far-field area is the superposition of the trapped wave components, which reveals complex wavefront process along with the propagation distance.

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