基于浮标观测和ERA5资料的浙江沿海海浪特征分析-海洋预报

基于浮标观测和ERA5资料的浙江沿海海浪特征分析

单位：1. 宁波市生态环境气象中心, 浙江宁波 315012;
2. 浙江省气象台, 浙江杭州 310057;
3. 宁波市气象台, 浙江宁波 315012;
4. 宁波大学数学与统计学院, 浙江宁波 315211

分类号：P731.22

出版年·卷·期（页码）：2024·41·第五期（34-43）

摘要：

基于舟山、温州两个浮标观测和ERA5再分析资料，开展浙江沿海风浪和涌浪特征统计，重点分析了风浪及其有效波高、波周期和海浪危险等级。结果发现：ERA5再分析资料与舟山、温州浮标观测值表现基本一致。风浪发生时两浮标10 m观测风和ERA5再分析风力均超过6级，涌浪多发生在风速小于4 m/s的弱风条件下。舟山浮标风浪主要出现在盛行风为NNW、NW和N风向时，而温州浮标风浪主要集中在N、NNE和NE风向。浙江沿海风浪多出现在冬半年的1—3月和11—12月，冷空气是造成该地区风浪事件的主要气象因子。海浪危险性月际分布显示，两浮标站均表现出5—6月危险等级较低，8—10月较高。风浪时的ERA5再分析资料表明：8月的风浪与台风密切相关，浙江沿海大范围地出现4 m以上巨浪，冬季冷空气和9—10月浙江沿海风浪主要为中到大浪，且浙南沿海各风浪要素值均高于浙北。冷空气风浪事件造成的Ⅱ级以上海浪危险等级范围最大，而台风会在浙江沿海造成较大范围的Ⅰ级海浪危险等级。

Analysis on wind wave and swell characteristics of Zhejiang coast is carried out based on two buoys, Observations offshore Zhoushan and Wenzhou, and the ERA5 reanalysis data, with emphasis on significant wave heights (SWH), wave periods (WP) and risk indices of wind wave. Results show that the ERA5 data is basically consistent with the buoy observations. Wind wave and swell generally occur under strong breezes of ≥10.8 m/s and light winds of below 4 m/s respectively. Wind wave mainly happens with prevailing winds from NNW, NW and N at the Zhoushan buoy, and N, NNE and NE at the Wenzhou buoy. The months with high frequency of wind wave are usually in winter half year, from January to March and from November to December, closely related to cold air masses. Monthly wave danger index shows that both buoys have a low risk level from May to June, and a high risk level from August to October. The ERA5 fields show wind wave in August is closely related to typhoon circulation, and SWH can be up above 4 m, while SWH of wind wave in winter and in months September and October is mainly between moderate and rough, and it displays higher wind wave elements along the southern Zhejiang coast than the northern coast. Cold air masses hold the widest coverage with wave risk above level Ⅱ, but only typhoons can cause wave risk of level Ⅰ in a large coverage of the coastal areas of Zhejiang.

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